Mondello and Monreale

Today was a pretty easy day given that we were meant to go walking in the Zingaro Riserva but it is closed today and tomorrow - a bit unclear why but I think because of the threat of fires.

So instead we went to Santuario Santa Rosalia high up above Palermo and then Mondello; after lunch to Monreale.

But first we visited the spot where Judge Borsellino was killed by the Mafia by a car bomb outside the apartment of his mother. Along with Judge Falcone (also murdered) they had worked to collect evidence against the Mafia and to demonstrate a connection between the Mafia and the State. Good article at: http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/sicilian-tragedy-world-problem-first-falcone-now-borsellino-two-leading-judges-have-been-murdered-and-mafia-crime-is-spreading-across-the-globe-the-state-must-fight-back-rather-than-leaving-it-to-individuals-says-charles-richards-1534567.html

Stefano spoke passionately about this incident as he was 15 when it happened - in his childhood neighbourhood, in a place where he often played with his friends. He said it looked like a war zone where the bomb went off. I suspect this was a defining moment in his anti-Mafia sentiments, as it was for many Sicilians back then who felt that a line in the sand had been crossed.

(The local cyclists obviously use the climb for some hill training.)

The grotto sanctuary is of Santa Rosalia who was a 12th century noblewoman who eschewed the luxuries of privileged life in order to become a hermit. After finding a suitable cave dwelling, she lived alone dedicated to worshipping the glory of God, and died unknown. Her name wouldn’t become legend until 1624, 450 years after her death, when the plague threatened to wipe out Palermo. She appeared in spirit form to a few villagers, revealed the location of her bones, and suggested that these be paraded about town. Orders were followed, Sta. Rosalia was venerated, and Palermo was spared. She’s been worshipped devoutly ever since - as you do.

Mondello is a small seaside resort with a wonderful beach and is more or less a suburb of the city. The beach is generally crowded, but not so much today. It is popular amongst the Palermitans who enjoy beach games there and the sands are choc-a-bloc with towels and sun-oiled bodies. The beach is long and curving and is ideal for swimmers but many simply wade into the water to cool down. There are pedal-boats for hire; life-guards keep an eye on the water; and pedlars weave up and down the beach with jewellery, sarongs, food and drink. Long stretches of the beach are taken up with pastel-coloured changing cabins (lidi attrezzati).

We strolled along the pleasant promenade running parallel with the beach, then found ourselves a spot to plonk down our stuff and go for a swim. All very relaxing.

After lunch, our bus took us to Monreale which has a fabulous duomo. Monreale sits up high on Monte Caputo overlooking Palermo. The cathedral wasn't open for the afternoon until 2 p.m. so we enjoyed a coffee at Bar Italia nearby (recommended in the Plotkin book) and we had lovely fresh almond biscotti and I tried a yummy glass of latte de mandorle (almond milk).

Famed for its glorious golden mosaics, Monreale cathedral is perhaps the finest Norman building in Sicily. It was built in the 12th century as part of a grand royal complex a few miles outside of Palermo. The apse has a magnificent portrait of Christ Pantocrator ("Ruler of All") and populating the rest of the apse, nave and aisles are mosaics of saints, apostles, Old Testament stories and scenes from the life of Christ.

The lovely cloister adjoining the south side consists of 228 double columns supporting Arab-style arches.
We also climbed up to the roof terraces for amazing views over the cloisters and out to the sea and the bay of Conca d'Oro.

The bus took us back into Palermo and the others got off with Stefano to see some sights we had already done and we took the opportunity to return on the bus to our hotel, have a shower and have a siesta out of the hot sun before setting off later in the afternoon to the impressive Baroque church, San Giuseppe dei Teatini.

We returned then to the Teatro Massimo area and had a drink in the back streets of the Bara dell’Olivella area and then across to the Plaza Politeama area for a nice meal down a side street at Guido. I had pasta norma again (when you're onto a good thing, stick to it, I say) and a nice red wine Donnatà. My Friend had calimari and couscous but the waitress was somewhat bemused at his having a German beer with this (I guess because it was sooooo hot still - even at 8:30 p.m. - and very humid!).